The ground roars and trembles, tipping the surging crowd down the narrow escalators. The train to Guangzhou rumbles into Hong Kong station. We obstinately hold our ground and move steadily towards our cabin. The uniformed woman gestures irritably. ‘Upstairs’, she says. I, personally, am anything but irritable. Upstairs. And facing forward. We’ve expressly requested that we face in the direction the train is going so China won’t go backwards. We sit down victorious and look ac

Well, what can you do with an island? It just floats there, wantonly untethered. It’s possible it doesn’t even need you, that’s how unequal the relationship is. If it shrugged, you’d fall in the sea. But, with a small one, like Cheung Chau, there are edges everywhere and you can walk right around and tickle them with your bare feet. In the end you’ll be back where you started and that’s not easy on one of those continent things. And Hong Kong’s deadly crowded. There are peopl